The Importance of Hair in Pin-Up Style

In the pin-up aesthetic, hair is never an afterthought. The elaborate, sculpted hairstyles of the 1940s and 1950s were as much a statement as the clothing — they communicated femininity, effort, and a particular kind of polished confidence. The good news is that most iconic vintage hairstyles require no special skills beyond patience and the right technique. Here's how to master three of the most defining looks.

Essential Tools & Products

Before you begin, gather these basics:

  • Rat-tail comb (for sectioning and back-combing)
  • Bobby pins — lots of them
  • Kirby grips (large, U-shaped pins for rolls)
  • Setting lotion or mousse
  • Strong-hold hairspray
  • A fine-toothed comb for smoothing
  • Velcro or pin curl clips (optional but helpful)

1. Victory Rolls

Victory rolls are the quintessential 1940s hairstyle — two symmetrical rolled sections framing the face, with hair swept up and away from the forehead. They reportedly got their name from the celebratory loop performed by fighter pilots returning from successful missions.

Step-by-Step

  1. Section the hair: Create a triangular section at the front of each side of the head, roughly from the temple to the crown. Clip the rest of the hair out of the way.
  2. Backcomb lightly: Tease the underside of each front section for volume and grip.
  3. Smooth the surface: Using a fine-tooth comb, smooth the top layer of each section toward you, keeping the underneath teased.
  4. Roll forward and up: Wrap each section around two fingers, rolling the hair inward and upward toward the forehead, tucking the ends underneath.
  5. Pin securely: Slide bobby pins into the roll at angles, catching both the roll and the hair underneath for stability. Use as many pins as needed.
  6. Style the back: The rest of the hair can be left in loose waves, a low chignon, or a pompadour-style sweep.

2. Vintage Finger Waves

Finger waves were the signature style of the 1930s Hollywood glamour era — a sleek, sculpted wave pattern set close to the head. They work best on shorter, smoother hair textures.

  1. Apply a generous amount of setting lotion to damp hair and comb it flat.
  2. Using a fine-toothed comb, push a section of hair toward your face to create a ridge, while pressing two fingers flat against the hair just above the ridge.
  3. With the comb, push the hair in the opposite direction beneath your fingers to create the next wave trough.
  4. Continue alternating the direction of waves from root to tip across the entire head.
  5. Secure each wave with setting clips and allow to dry completely under a hood dryer or naturally.
  6. Remove clips carefully, smooth with hands, and set with hairspray.

3. The Vintage Pompadour

The pompadour — hair swept back and up from the forehead in a dramatic arch — was adapted by 1950s women from the rockabilly men's style, and became a bold, feminine statement in its own right.

  1. Take a section of hair from the front of the crown — roughly the front third of your head.
  2. Backcomb this section heavily from roots to mid-lengths for significant volume.
  3. Smooth the surface carefully without collapsing the volume underneath.
  4. Roll the hair back and sweep it up, anchoring at the crown with pins.
  5. Tuck and pin the sides to create a smooth, rounded form.
  6. Blast with hairspray and gently refine the shape with a comb.

Tips for Long-Lasting Results

  • Always work with second-day hair or lightly powdered hair — freshly washed hair is too slippery to hold vintage styles.
  • Don't skimp on pins; more support means longer wear.
  • Set finished styles with a firm-hold hairspray, then avoid touching until the spray has dried completely.
  • A satin hair scarf worn to bed protects victory rolls and waves overnight for refreshed second-day styling.

With a little practice, these vintage hairstyles become second nature — and they're guaranteed to complete any pin-up look with authentic, head-turning flair.